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Cheap Duck Blind for your boat... Pics added 08/19

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T_Moore View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 August 2010 at 11:18am
I am in the process of building a realtively cheap duck blind for my 14ft boat. I saw a link for a really nice homemade blind and I decided to myself I could do something similar, yet on a smaller budget than what I imagined he spent (I know if you use the Bimini top hardware like he did you are looking at roughly $40-$50 in plastic connectors). I will finish the blind in the next few days, but I wanted to share the process for those that were looking into getting one for their boat, but dont want to spend $300-$500 for a boat blind, and enjoy building things like I do.... I think when it is all said and done I will have roughly $60-85 in it, plus whatever it costs to cover it. I will post some pictures tomorrow of how I did it and what it looks like.  I will also do a materials list. Hope this helps someone....
 
Here is the link:


Edited by T_Moore - 19 August 2010 at 11:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pastorkhris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 10:42am
That is AWESOME!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Travis Schneider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 August 2010 at 12:08pm
Nice, that'll definitely work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 7:04am

Materials List to buy:

10 X 10 Ft EMT conduit (2 were used up trying to figure out the bender) @ $3.48

1 - 4 pack of 3/4 U shaped EMT clamps @ $0.78

5 - NS1 (nail guards) @ $0.54

4 5/16 X 2.5 inch bolts @ $0.23

4 - 5/16 Zinc Flat washer packs @ $1.18

8 - 5/16 Nylon lock washers @ $0.11

4 - 5/16 X 1.5 inch bolts @ $0.18

1 - 5/32 aluminum rivets @ $4.97

1 - Pint of Valspar Flat Black paint @ $4.47

1 - Container of Dark Brown Dye @ 2.29 (had to dye some old white straps brown)

2 - 2.5 inch nut & bolt packaged kits @ $1.18

1 - 5/32 Drill bit @ $1.87

 

Total $61.56 ($66.64 w/ tax)

 

If you do not have a 3/4 EMT conduit bender they run $38.97 + tax.

 

I had one.

 

Things I had:

Welder this is not needed (you can buy EMT compression fittings for $1.08/ea, they will work as a viable replacement for welding)

inch Conduit Bender

Drill & Tape measure

Sharpee (or something to mark on the metal)

Drill Press (just makes things easier)

Chop saw w/ metal blade

Paint brush

5/16 drill bit

Pliers

Air rivet gun (Harbor Freight - http://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-93458.html ) or you can buy a hand rivet gun for something like $16.99 at Lowes.

Air compressor

BEER (Coors light)

A close proximity to Lowes and Home Depot

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 7:16am

The first thing I did was to figure a good mounting spot for the poles to run across my boat. I made sure I would have enough room to move around in the seats on the boat when the blind was up.  Whatever works best for you, each boat is different.  I used the U-shaped EMT clamps to hold the bar down, and drilled through the rail of my boat and secured the poles to the boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 7:45am

I then had to teach myself how to use the Conduit bender.  After about 2 ruined 10ft sections of conduit, I called a buddy and he informed me of my error in technique. 

 
When bending the pipe, always use the foot pedal and use heavy foot pressure to cause the bend, only use your hands to help guide the pipe around the bender.
 
Basically if you get bends like this
 
 
use a lot more foot pressure and they will look like this.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oneneo3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 7:59am
WOW! There's a 200hp tiller steer sitting on the back of that duck boat!! Eek I bet that girl will flat skit and git!! Yes 

Edited by oneneo3 - 19 August 2010 at 8:00am
Out with the tide.

Ducks flat out refuse to fly near me!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 8:09am
I don't shoot the ducks.... I knock em' down when I break the sound barrier  in the boat and pick them up by hand Wink...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 8:29am

When I made the bends in my conduit I made a mark 24 inches from the end of the pipe, and lined up the Star symbol on the bender with my mark (once you get a bender youll see the Star symbol) and made the bend to the outside edge of the curve. I made them longer than I wanted so that I would give myself some wiggle room if I made an error in my measurements.  My total span length was a little over 11.5 feet, so I have a junction of the two pipes. I am fortunate enough to know how to weld, so I welded them together.

 
Another alternative that I did try 1st was to buy some conduit compression fittings.
They worked well enough to get the pipes to stay together, but the hold wasnt strong enough for my standards. So I welded them up and ground down the welds. 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 8:54am

Once I had everything bent, measured and spliced/welded together, I had to attach it to the cross supports I had mounted to the boat.  I planned to have the very outside edge of the blind rest on the railing of my boat, so I positioned it where I wanted it, then clamped the cross support piece and the blind together and drilled a hole through both tubes.

 

I drilled them both at the same time to ensure I would have a straight path to run the bolt through. with no binding or anything that would prevent the blind from working like it should

 

Notice that I used two washers between the pipes, and when I added the second bracket for the second tier I had to use 3 washers between the pipes.

 
1st level done...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 9:40am

The second tier by design was so sit exactly on top of the 1st tier and pivot up off of the pipe. I trying to be as cheap as possible walked around Lowes looking for a cheap and easy bracket that was also strong enough to hold up the weight of the blind and to any torture I would put it through.  So after about 30 minutes aimlessly wandering Lowes I found these NS1 nail guards (you put them on the edge of a stud, and they guard any live electrical wiring/water pipes youve run through the stud. They prevent any future nails from piercing whatever is behind the metal plate

 

I first cut off the ends, then cut that in half (I eyeballed it so no smart remarks).  I then went to my drill press and drilled three holes per piece in a triangle shape (I remembered a triangle is supposed to be the strongest shape). Once I had all the holes drilled, I had to pre-bend the brackets to the shape of the EMT. I used a pair of pliers, held it to the EMT and hit it with a hammer. Simple yet effective

 

 

Then I drilled a hole, put a rivet in, and repeated.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 August 2010 at 11:07am

I then lined up the brackets and the pole and drilled them just like I did with the bottom tier ( 1st tier).

 
Here is a picture of how both joints pivot
 
 
 
 

 

Here is the metal work of the blind finished and it temp held up Now you can see that the real purpose of the 1st tier was to give you room underneath the blind material....

 
I threw on a camo net I head so you can get the idea of the finished
product. (sorry for the bad pics, my iphone doesnt like low lighting, and a shaky hand)

 

 

I still have to dye my straps brown, mount them to the boat/blind, paint the metal tubes flat black, and attach the blind material to the actual blind. I am toying around with using some sort of buttons/snaps to attach the blind to the metal, havent deicded on my method yet. I am also toying around with buying a tarp/some Cordura600(SP?) to put on the inside to make it wind proof (just dont know if its worth the extra $ and the sissy side remarks) I am also looking for some black/brown pipe cleaners to tie around the pipe and put through the blind material to allow me to attach local vegetation to the blind to help break it up....

I will post more pics after i get the straps mounted and the blind attached...


Edited by T_Moore - 19 August 2010 at 11:32am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote one_fast_jak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 August 2010 at 3:16am

Looks good

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gauge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 August 2010 at 5:28am
Nice! ThumbsUp

Edited by Gauge - 20 August 2010 at 5:28am
"Pain is the best instructor, but no one wants to go to his class." - Sensei Hitoshi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T_Moore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 August 2010 at 10:00am
Ok so I finished the blind, and here are some completed pictures.... My total over all cost was just less than $85 after a few trips to Lowes for things like extra washers/rivets/ and zip ties...
 
 
Hopefully I'll kill some ducks out of it....
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